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Costume Designer

Costume Designers start working on films at the beginning of pre-production.  They are in charge of designing, creating, acquiring and hiring all costumes for Actors and extras.  This must be achieved within strict budgets, and to tight schedules.  Costume Designers' work is integral to defining the overall 'look' of films, and their role requires a great deal of expertise.  Their creative work ranges from designing original costumes, to overseeing the purchase and adaptation of ready-made outfits.  As Heads of the Costume Department, Costume Designers are responsible for staffing, and for managing a team of skilled personnel.  Costume Designers also supervise practical issues, such as departmental budgets and schedules, the organisation of running wardrobes, and costume continuity.

Responsibilities
During pre-production Costume Designers break down scripts scene by scene, in order to work out how many characters are involved, and what costumes are required.  They then begin the more complex task of developing costume plots for each character.  These plots ensure that colours and styles do not mimic each other in the same scene, and highlight the characters' emotional journeys by varying the intensity and depth of colours. 

Costume Designers must carry out research into the costume styles, designs and construction methods which are appropriate for the productions' time period, using a number of resources including libraries, museums and the Internet.  They may also discuss costume and character ideas with performers.  They deliver initial ideas to Directors about the overall costume vision, character plots and original costume designs, using sketches and fabric samples.  They also discuss colour palettes with the Director of Photography and the Production Designer. 

Throughout the production process Costume Designers ensure that accurate financial records are kept, and that weekly expenditure reports are produced.  They prepare overall production schedules, as well as directing the day-to-day breakdowns of responsibilities.  Costume Designers select and hire appropriate suppliers and Costume Makers, negotiating terms with them, and communicating design requirements.  They make sure that fittings for Actors and extras are arranged.  They supervise fabric research and purchase, and ensure that garments are completed to deadlines. 

Depending on the numbers of costumes to be created, and the scale of budgets, Costume Designers may decide to create a dedicated Costume Workshop.   They should be on set whenever a new costume is worn for the first time, to make sure that performers are comfortable, to explain special features, and to oversee any alterations.  Once filming is completed, Costume Designers are responsible for the return of hired outfits, and the sale or disposal of any remaining costumes.

Skills
Costume Designers must be highly organised, with good presentation skills and the confidence to manage and motivate their teams effectively.  They should be able to work under pressure, to external and departmental deadlines, and must have stamina and be adaptable to changes.  They need to be able to listen to the ideas and concerns of others, while at the same time trusting their own opinions and instincts.  They work closely with Actors in a physical sense, and must therefore be tactful and able to put people at their ease. 

Costume Designers need good descriptive abilities, and they must be able break down scripts in terms of costume plots, and have knowledge of story structure and character arcs.  They must understand the research process, and know how to source information.  They need creative flair, a strong sense of colour and design and the ability to draw.  They should be confident in their knowledge of period costume, jewellery, corsetry, hosiery, millinery, footwear, costume accessories, etc.  They must be experts on fabric qualities, clothing cuts, fits and techniques, pattern making and sewing.  Creatively, they should know how to dress to particular faces or physiques to create characters. 

Overall Costume Designers need a wide-ranging cultural knowledge base, not only in terms of fashion, but also art and literature, film, and textiles.  Costume Designers should be familiar with the requirements of all relevant Health and Safety legislation and procedures.  Good IT skills (Mac and PC) are very useful.  

Qualifications/Experience
The role of Costume Designer is not an entry-level position, and practitioners need considerable knowledge and experience in order to design for feature films. Most have a foundation or BA Hons in Fashion, Costume Design or Interpretation.  They may have also attended specialised training courses, or completed a post-graduate degree.  Having gained their qualifications, many Costume Designers progress through the Costume Department, beginning their careers as Costume Assistants or Trainees.  Alternatively candidates may have worked for one of the large Costumiers. 

As it is essential that Costume Designers understand how different kinds of lighting, camera lenses, film stock and movement affect costumes, they need previous experience of working on film productions.  They must have a wide network of contacts, and experience of working with fabric manufacturers and Costumiers.  As the role involves travel, a full EU driving licence is required.

Individual course accreditation in certain subject areas is currently being piloted. As part of Skillset's and the UK Film Council's Film Skills Strategy, A Bigger Future, a network of Screen Academies and a Film Business Academy have been approved as centres of excellence in education and training for film.

Where to go for more information
Skillset is the Sector Skills Council for the Audio Visual Industries. The first sources of information for all jobs in the industry are the National Occupational Standards. Browse Skillset's website for links to our network of training partners, information about training and access to the comprehensive Skillset/BFI course database. Finally, Skillset Careers is UK's only specialist media careers advice service; for detailed media careers information and advice, visit www.skillset.org/careers.


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