Costume Designers start working on films at the beginning of pre-production. They are in charge of designing, creating, acquiring and hiring all costumes for Actors and extras. This must be achieved within strict budgets, and to tight schedules. Costume Designers' work is integral to defining the overall ‘look' of films, and their role requires a great deal of expertise. Their creative work ranges from designing original costumes, to overseeing the purchase and adaptation of ready-made outfits. As Head of the Costume Department, Costume Designers are responsible for staffing and for managing a team of skilled personnel. Costume Designers also supervise practical issues, such as departmental budgets and schedules, the organisation of running wardrobes, and costume continuity.

What is the job?
During pre-production Costume Designers break down scripts scene by scene, in order to work out how many characters are involved, and what costumes are required. They then begin the more complex task of developing costume plots for each character. These plots ensure that colours and styles do not mimic each other in the same scene, and highlight the characters' emotional journeys by varying the intensity and depth of colours.

Costume Designers must carry out research into the costume styles, designs and construction methods which are appropriate for the productions' time period, using a number of resources, including libraries, museums and the Internet. They may also discuss costume and character ideas with performers. They deliver initial ideas to Directors about the overall costume vision, character plots and original costume designs, using sketches and fabric samples. They also discuss colour palettes with the Director of Photography and the Production Designer.

Throughout the production process Costume Designers ensure that accurate financial records are kept, and that weekly expenditure reports are produced. They prepare overall production schedules, as well as directing the day-to-day breakdowns of responsibilities. Costume Designers select and hire appropriate suppliers and Costume Makers, negotiating terms with them, and communicating design requirements. They make sure that fittings for Actors and extras are arranged. They supervise fabric research and purchase, and ensure that garments are completed to deadlines.

Depending on the numbers of costumes to be created, and the scale of budgets, Costume Designers may decide to create a dedicated Costume Workshop. They should be on set whenever a new costume is worn for the first time, to make sure that performers are comfortable, to explain special features, and to oversee any alterations. Once filming is completed, Costume Designers are responsible for the return of hired outfits, and the sale or disposal of any remaining costumes.

Typical career routes
The role of Costume Designer is not an entry-level position, and practitioners need considerable knowledge and experience in order to design for feature films.

Having first gained qualifications, many Costume Designers begin their careers as Costume Assistants or Wardrobe Trainees and progress through the Costume Department, learning from more experienced colleagues as they work their way up. Alternatively they may start their careers working for one of the large costumiers.


Essential knowledge & skills
Costume Designers must be highly organised, with the confidence to manage and motivate their teams effectively. They must have stamina and be adaptable to changes. They need to be able to listen to the ideas and concerns of others, while at the same time trusting their own opinions and instincts.  They work closely with Actors in a physical sense, and must therefore be tactful and able to put people at their ease.

Costume Designers need good descriptive abilities, and they must be able to break down scripts in terms of costume plots, and have knowledge of story structure and character arcs. They should be confident in their knowledge of period costume, jewellery, corsetry, hosiery, millinery, footwear, costume accessories, etc. They must be experts on fabric qualities, clothing cuts, fits and techniques, pattern making and sewing. Creatively, they should know how to dress to particular faces or physiques to create characters. Overall Costume Designers need a wide-ranging cultural knowledge base, not only in terms of fashion, but also art and literature, film, and textiles.

It is essential that Costume Designers have previous experience of working on film productions. They must have a wide network of contacts, and experience of working with fabric manufacturers and costumiers. As the role involves travel, a full EU driving licence is required.

Key skills include:

• creative flair and imagination
• a strong sense of colour and design, and the ability to draw
• an understanding of how different kinds of lighting, camera lenses, film stock and movement affect costumes
• good presentation skills
• the ability to manage and communicate with a team
• planning, budgeting and organisational skills
• research skills
• the ability to work under pressure, to external and departmental deadlines
• good IT skills (Mac and PC)
• knowledge of the requirements of all relevant Health and Safety legislation and procedures.

Training and Qualifications
It may be possible to become a Costume Designer without formal qualifications by learning on the job, but most have a qualification such as a Foundation degree or Degree. Relevant subjects include art and design, costume design, fashion, theatre design or performing arts (production). They may have also attended specialised training courses, or completed a postgraduate diploma or degree.

There are some industry led training schemes for new entrants. These include FT2 - Film and Television Freelance Training - wardrobe assistant; and the BBC Design Trainee Scheme. Competition for places is fierce. Some drama schools, such as RADA and the Bristol Old Vic Theatre School, offer vocational training in costume for theatre, film and television.

Skillet's network of Screen Academies are institutions that it has identified as offering the highest quality of film skills training. Details are available on http://www.skillset.org/.

Where to go for more information
Skillset is the Sector Skills Council Creative Media. The first sources of information for all jobs in the industry are the National Occupational Standards. Browse Skillset's website for links to our network of training partners, information about training and access to the comprehensive Skillset/BFI course database. Skillset Careers is UK's only specialist media careers advice service; for detailed media careers information and advice, visit www.skillset.org/careers.

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